Presentation/Phase 4 - Revision history

S.H.O. at 18:12, 28 August 2016

2016-08-28T18:12:14Z

S.H.O. at 00:07, 2 May 2016

2016-05-02T00:07:46Z

S.H.O. at 23:07, 1 May 2016

2016-05-01T23:07:10Z

S.H.O. at 22:57, 1 May 2016

2016-05-01T22:57:52Z

S.H.O. at 22:14, 1 May 2016

2016-05-01T22:14:15Z

S.H.O.: Created page with "{{DISPLAYTITLE:Presentation → Phase 4}} thumb File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png|thumb..."

2016-05-01T22:14:03Z

Created page with "{{DISPLAYTITLE:Presentation → Phase 4}} thumb File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png|thumb..."

New page

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Presentation → Phase 4}}
[[File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 076 of 176.png|thumb]]
[[File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png|thumb]]
'''In Phase 4…''' • First on the list is to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the wood pieces. • Second is to pre-drill and screw on additional wood pieces for added structural rigidity. • Third is to adhere hex nuts on the shaft in order to lock the position of the rotor. • Fourth on the list is to install ring connectors onto magnet wires where needed. • Fifth is to screw the ring connectors on the toggle switch and secure the switch to the base with a mounting adhesive. • Sixth is to install the fan blades on the shaft. • Seventh is to run the S.H.O. Drive and measure the resistance, inductance, as well as the operational ampere current, rotational speed, temperature, and wind speed.

==No hidden batteries==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 078 of 176.png||'''Transparency''' ''(Protocols)'' • Before I finish assembly and run some tests, to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the structural wood of the S.H.O. Drive, I will remove the wood and use a metal detector to show that there is no hidden battery. Then after that is established, I will reinstall the wood pieces back on.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 079 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Coils''' ''(Disassembly)'' • Before I can remove the wood panels, I need to first pull out the S.H.O. Coils from the installed ceiling hooks so that I can separate the panels from each other.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 080 of 176.png||'''Wood Panels''' ''(Disassembly)'' • After the coils are removed, I then have to detach the wood panels from the base blocks by disconnecting the screws and hinges. For this I will use pieces from the iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools. • The ceiling hooks can be unscrewed by hand.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 081 of 176.png||'''Metal Detector''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • In order to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the S.H.O. Drive wood pieces, I will use the GoerTek Portable Security Scanner that I purchased from GoerTek via Amazon.com
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==Reinforcements==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 082 of 176.png||'''Metal Spring Clamps''' ''(Recap)'' • In Phase 1, in order to hold the wood pieces for pre-drilling, I used the Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamps that I purchased from Woodcraft. • I will use this again to conduct further pre-drilling for some additional structural reinforcements.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 083 of 176.png||'''Compact Power Drill''' ''(Recap)'' • In Phase 1, I pre-drilled holes for the brass screws using the 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master from Harbor Freight Tools.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 084 of 176.png||'''Drill Bits''' ''(Recap)'' • In Phase 1, for drilling pilot holes for the brass screws, I used 3/32 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 085 of 176.png||'''Spacers''' ''(Phase 4 Parts)'' • To ensure that the bearings stay inside the holes, I will screw in HighPoint Solid Brass Screws that I purchased from Woodcraft (after pre-drilling first) to attach very small spacers over the bearing holes. The spacers came with the Birdhouse kits.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 086 of 176.png||'''Wide “Wood Shingle”''' ''(Phase 4 Parts)'' • The length of the two ash wood base blocks differ by 1/8”, so I will pre-drill through a “wide wood shingle” onto the end of one of the base blocks, and then I will screw in additional brass screws in order to secure the wide “wood shingle” into place.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 087 of 176.png||'''X-Acto Knife''' ''(Phase 4 Tools)'' • In order to trim off the excess wood of the wide “wood shingle”, I will use an X-Acto Knife No. 1 with Cap that I purchased from an Artist & Craftsman Supply store.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 088 of 176.png||'''Narrow “Wood Shingles”''' ''(Parts)'' • Additional brass screws will be used to secure two narrow “wood shingles” between each end of the two base blocks to lock them at a 45 degree tilt at both sides.
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==Presentation back cover==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 089 of 176.png||'''#ShoDrives @ShoDrives Sho.wiki''' - ''Drive Replication and Collaboration Site'' '''YouTube.com/c/ShoWiki''' - ''Watch and Subscribe Site'' '''Facebook.com/ShoDrives''' - ''Like, Share, and Fan Site''
}}

==Finishing main unit assembly==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 090 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Drive''' ''(Reassembly)'' • After the test with the metal detector and installing extra wood pieces, I will remove the “narrow shingles”, <big>'''''and then'''''</big> reinstall onto the wood panels the ceiling hooks, hinges, shaft, “narrow shingles”, and finally the two S.H.O. coils.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 091 of 176.png||'''Hex Nuts''' ''(Parts)'' • I will secure the shaft with half-a-thread’s worth of special-purpose glue called Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242, which I purchased at Lowe’s. • This will hold hex nuts on the shaft adjacent to the outer facings of the bearings.
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==Connect toggle switch==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 092 of 176.png||'''Terminal Rings''' ''(Phase 4 Parts)'' • To connect the magnet wires onto the toggle switch, I will install 10-106 Terminal Rings from Gardner Bender, which I purchased from Amazon.com. • I will crimp these onto the ends of the magnet wire and screw them onto the toggle switch terminals.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 093 of 176.png||'''Sandpaper''' ''(Tools)'' • To maximize the connection between the terminal rings and the magnet wire, I will sand off the enamel layer at the ends of the wire using 3M 600 Grit sandpaper that I purchased from Lowe’s.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 094 of 176.png||'''Crimper Tool''' ''(Phase 4 Tools)'' • Using the VISE-GRIP Multi Tool Stripper, Cutter and Crimper that I purchased from IRWIN Tools through Amazon.com, I will crimp the ring connector sleeves on the ends of magnet wires.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 095 of 176.png||''' Toggle Switch''' ''(Phase 4 Parts)'' • The ring connectors will then be screwed onto a 20A toggle switch. • This is a double-pole, double-throw switch, or DPDT for short.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 096 of 176.png||'''Terminal Rings''' ''(Assembly)'' • To tighten the screws that will hold the terminal rings onto the toggle switch. I will again use pieces from the iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools.
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===Toggle settings===

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 097 of 176.png||'''ON/OFF Settings''' ''(Operation)'' • The DPDT (or double-pole double-throw) switch, purchased from TOOGOO through Amazon.com, has one OFF setting and two ON settings.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 098 of 176.png||'''OFF Setting''' ''(Operation)'' • When the OFF setting is selected, the S.H.O. coil will be an open circuit. • The two middle terminals or “poles” matching the OFF setting will be connected to the ends of the coil, but nothing else.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 099 of 176.png||'''On Setting #1''' ''(Operation)'' • When ON setting #1 is selected, it will simply close the circuit. • The two terminals or “poles” for this setting will be connected together with magnet wire.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 100 of 176.png||'''On Setting #2''' ''(Operation)'' • ON setting #2, when selected, may be used to connect the coil to a Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter in series with the coils. • This will be used to measure the Inductance of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 101 of 176.png||'''LC meter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • I purchased the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter from Sinometer via Amazon.com
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 102 of 176.png||'''LC meter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • The Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter can measure: • Magnetic Inductance (represented by L) • Electrical Capacitance (represented by C)
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 103 of 176.png||'''On Setting #2''' ''(Operation)'' • ON setting #2 may also be used to connect the coil to a Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter. • This will be used to measure the Resistance of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 104 of 176.png||'''Milli-ohm Meter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • I purchased the Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter from modders_chn via eBay.com
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 105 of 176.png||'''Milli-ohm Meter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • The Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter uses the 4-wire method of measuring very small resistances. • The 4-wire method involves passing a current through a resistor and measuring the voltage across the terminals.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 106 of 176.png||'''On Setting #2''' ''(Operation)'' • ON setting #2 may also be used to connect the coil to an Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter. • This will be used to measure the current of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 107 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • I purchased the Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter from Fry’s Electronics.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 108 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • The Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter will be used calculate the root mean square or RMS of the current & voltage.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 109 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • The heat loss in the winding can be calculated by taking the product of winding resistance and the mean square current.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 110 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • This device does not measure the phase difference between current and voltage. • Therefore, it cannot be used to measure power in a circuit with an inductor, capacitor, or other circuit components which may cause a phase difference between current and voltage. • However, this meter can be used to calculate heat losses and measure induced voltage.
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==Mounting and connections==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 111 of 176.png||'''Mounting the Switch''' ''(Assembly)'' • 3M Scotch Heavy Duty Mounting Tape (½” (or 13mm) wide) will be used to mount the toggle switch onto the rear “narrow shingle”.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 112 of 176.png||'''Alligator Clip Leads''' ''(Equipment)'' • For better lead connections to On Setting #2, I purchased Heavy Duty 12 AWG - 3 Feet Long DC Power Supply Leads from PS-Mastech via Amazon.com.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 113 of 176.png||'''Alligator Clip Leads''' ''(Equipment)'' • These leads have a wire size identical to the wire used in the S.H.O. Coil and therefore support a similar amount of current. These leads are gauge 12 on the American Wire Gauge scale. • At one end, they have banana plugs which may be connected to the multimeters which I will be using. • At the other end, these leads have alligator clips which can attach to the toggle switch at On Setting #2.
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==Load assembly==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 114 of 176.png||'''Output Demonstration''' ''(Protocols)'' • One key task is to absorb and demonstrate the mechanical output of the S.H.O. Drive. • To do this demonstration, I will use a propeller, which will transfer out mechanical energy to air, producing wind.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 115 of 176.png||'''Fan Blades''' ''(Phase 4 Parts)'' • This Automotive cooling fan has 5 blades and has a diameter of 12” (or about 30 cm). • I purchased this item from Flex-a-Lite through Amazon.com • It’s part number 1312.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 116 of 176.png||'''Washers and Hex Nuts''' ''(Parts)'' • I will secure the 12” (or 30 cm) diameter fan with its 5/8” (or 16 mm) bore hole, through the 5/8” (or 16 mm) diameter rod by compressing it between a pair of zinc-plated washers that I purchased at Lowe’s and a pair of zinc-plated hex nuts that I purchased at Tacoma Screw.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 117 of 176.png||'''Adjustable Wrench''' ''(Phase 4 Tools)'' • To tighten the hex nuts against the washers and the propeller, I purchased a Kobalt 8-in (about 200 mm) Chrome Vanadium Steel Adjustable Wrench from Lowe’s.
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==Testing setup and procedure==

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|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 118 of 176.png||'''Tachometer''' ''(Measuring Devices)'' • To measure rotation speed, I will use the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer that I purchased from AGPtek through Amazon.com
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 119 of 176.png||'''Tachometer''' ''(Tools)'' • To properly use the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer, I must use the reflective tape that was included with the kit. • This included reflective tape is designed to allow photo tachometers to accurately measure rotational speed.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 120 of 176.png||'''Compact Disc''' ''(Compatibility)'' • I will apply the reflective tape onto the label side of a CD, which I will then insert over the 5/8” diameter threaded rod. • The diameter of the CD’s center hole is 15mm. As a result, if you take the depth of the threads into account, the CD should hold steady without modifying it. • The CD will be secured onto the shaft with hex nuts.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 121 of 176.png||'''Plastic Furniture Tips''' ''(Phase 4 Parts)'' • To prevent the ends of the shaft from damaging things, I will cover them with 5/8” (or 16 mm) Black Plastic Furniture Tips from the Hillman Group that I purchased at Lowe’s.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 122 of 176.png||'''Electrical Tape''' ''(Parts)'' • In order to form a tight grip between the shaft and the Plastic Furniture Tips, I will use the Scotch Professional Grade 35 Red Vinyl Electrical Tape, also from Lowe’s.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 123 of 176.png||'''Electrical Resistance''' ''(Pre-run Testing)'' • To measure the electrical resistance of the S.H.O. Winding, I will be using the Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 124 of 176.png||'''Magnetic Inductance''' ''(Pre-run Testing)'' • To measure the magnetic inductance of the S.H.O. Winding as a function of rotor position, I will use the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 125 of 176.png||'''Induced Voltage vs. Rotation''' ''(Pre-run Testing)'' • Using the Extech 411 RMS Multimeter and the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer, I will measure the root mean square value of the induced voltage as a function of rotation speed.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 126 of 176.png||'''Electric Current''' ''(Run Testing)'' • During the test run, I will use the Extech 411 RMS Multimeter to measure the root mean square value of the induced current.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 127 of 176.png||'''Thermometer''' ''(Tools)'' • To measure the temperature of the coil, I will use the DTQ450X Quick-Read Thermometer from CDN that I purchased through Amazon.com • This thermometer has a range of -40° F to +450° F (or -40° C to +230° C)
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 128 of 176.png||'''Thermometer Accuracy''' ''(Pre-run Testing)'' • I must test the thermometer to see if it takes accurate readings • First, I will test the temperature of the air near the drive motor. • Then, after sanitizing the thermometer with 70% isopropyl alcohol wipes, I will test the temperature under my tongue, which should be about 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit or 37 degrees Centigrade.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 129 of 176.png||'''Before Temperature''' ''(Pre-run Testing)'' • After sanitizing the thermometer, I will insert the thermometer into one of the flat sections of the S.H.O. Drive Winding. I will also test the other three flat sections. • I will take out the thermometer out during the duration test, and I will set up water and ice samples to test the thermometer with, again sanitizing between measurements.
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 130 of 176.png||'''Duration Run''' ''(Run Testing)'' • I will test a duration run of the drive motor. In this test, I will measure the S.H.O. Drive’s: • Root mean square current • Wind Speed • Air Temperature • Coil Temperature • Rotational Speed
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 131 of 176.png||'''Anemometer''' ''(Measuring Equipment)'' • During the test run, I will measure the air speed in front and rear of the S.H.O. Drive fan, using the OriGlam Digital Anemometer & Thermometer from OriGlam that I purchased through Amazon.com • This anemometer can measure winds between 196 and 4900 ft/min (2.2 and 56 mph) (3.6 and 90 kph).
|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 132 of 176.png||'''After Temperature''' ''(Post-Run Testing)'' • After the duration test, I will reinsert the thermometer into the S.H.O. Drive Winding into the same sections tested previously, again, sanitizing between measurements.
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+[[File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png|thumb|<div style="float: right">Slide 077 of 176</div>]]
 '''In Phase 4…'''<br>• First on the list is to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the wood pieces.<br>• Second is to pre-drill and screw on additional wood pieces for added structural rigidity.<br>• Third is to adhere hex nuts on the shaft in order to lock the position of the rotor.<br>• Fourth on the list is to install ring connectors onto magnet wires where needed.<br>• Fifth is to screw the ring connectors on the toggle switch and secure the switch to the base with a mounting adhesive.<br>• Sixth is to install the fan blades on the shaft.<br>• Seventh is to run the S.H.O. Drive and measure the resistance, inductance, as well as the operational ampere current, rotational speed, temperature, and wind speed.

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 {{DISPLAYTITLE:Presentation → Phase 4}}
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-[[File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png|thumb]]
+[[File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png|thumb|Slide 077 of 176]]
 '''In Phase 4…'''<br>• First on the list is to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the wood pieces.<br>• Second is to pre-drill and screw on additional wood pieces for added structural rigidity.<br>• Third is to adhere hex nuts on the shaft in order to lock the position of the rotor.<br>• Fourth on the list is to install ring connectors onto magnet wires where needed.<br>• Fifth is to screw the ring connectors on the toggle switch and secure the switch to the base with a mounting adhesive.<br>• Sixth is to install the fan blades on the shaft.<br>• Seventh is to run the S.H.O. Drive and measure the resistance, inductance, as well as the operational ampere current, rotational speed, temperature, and wind speed.

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	\|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 132 of 176.png\|\|'''After Temperature'''<br>''(Post-Run Testing)''<br>• After the duration test, I will reinsert the thermometer into the S.H.O. Drive Winding into the same sections tested previously, again, sanitizing between measurements.		\|Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 132 of 176.png\|\|'''After Temperature'''<br>''(Post-Run Testing)''<br>• After the duration test, I will reinsert the thermometer into the S.H.O. Drive Winding into the same sections tested previously, again, sanitizing between measurements.
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