Difference between revisions of "Presentation/Phase 1"

2 Barn Birdhouse Kits
(Phase 1 Parts)
• The wood panels I will be using will come from 2 SawDust Bros. Birdhouse Kits which I obtained from Woodcraft.
• Why birdhouse kits? Well each birdhouse kit is packed with many pieces of wood of various sizes, which I may use in the future. 

Saving Time
(Protocols)
• But the main reason why I purchased two Birdhouse kits was for the two front panels, which have holes that are nearly the right size for the project.
• I will use the front panels from each kit as support structures to carry the weight of the bearings, rotor, and conductive copper coils. 

Hole Size
(Compatibility)
• Each front panel already has a conveniently placed 1½” (or about 38 mm) hole which I will expand by 1/8” (or about 3 mm) to hold the bearings.
• The bearings will be introduced in Phase 2.
• Each front panel has a base side measurement of 6” (or about 150 mm). Also, they have a thickness of ½” (or about 13 mm). 

Circle Template
(Phase 1 Tools)
• To mark the dimensions for the 1 5/8 ” (or about 41 mm) bearing holes, I bought a 42 circle template sheet by Timely from a specialty store called Artist & Craftsman Supply. 

Power Drill
(Phase 1 Tools)
• To expand the holes for the bearings, I purchased an inexpensive rotary tool from Ferm via Amazon.com. 

Portable Work Bench
(Equipment)
• I purchased from Black & Decker the WM125 Workmate through Amazon.com, which is foldable and has an adjustable width.
• The clamping wood pieces have a groove which, fortuitously, can hold the depth guide of the power drill. So this work bench will effectively function as an inexpensive “router table”. 

Dremel Accessory Set
(Phase 1 Tools)
• In order to finish the holes nicely to size, I will attach items from the Dremel 687-01 General Purpose Accessory Set I purchased at Fry’s Electronics. 

Sanding Bands & Drum
(Phase 1 Tools)
• The Dremel tools from the kit that I will use are the 432 Sanding Bands and the 407 Sanding Drum.
• The sanding area will be ½” (or about 13 mm) thick, which will be perfect for sanding into the ½” (or about 13 mm) thick wood panels which will hold the bearings. 

Plywood Surface
(Equipment)
• To make better use of the workbench for the rest of the project, I will cover the top with two pieces of Baltic Birch plywood from Woodcraft:
• The side lengths are 12” (or about 30 cm)
• The thickness of each is 1/2” (or about 13 mm) 

C-Clamps
(Equipment)
• To hold the plywood to the workbench, I will use 3 in. Industrial C-Clamps that I obtained from a Harbor Freight Tools store. 

Ash Wood Blocks
(Phase 1 Parts)
• I also have two separate Ash wood blocks, also from Woodcraft that are about 2 inches by 2 inches thick. That’s about 50 millimeters on each side. Their length is about 8 inches long, or about 200 millimeters. These blocks will serve as the “feet” of the S.H.O. Drive.
• If you’re wondering what Ash wood is used for, it’s a wood often used in baseball bats. 

Brass Hinges
(Phase 1 Parts)
• So how should I attach these panels to the base blocks? Well I could simply glue and nail these panels to the base like a normal person. But here I will do something different.
• From Woodcraft, I purchased these brass hinges, which I will use to attach the panels onto the ash wood blocks. 

Transparency
(Protocols)
• I am a bit extra-concerned about the craftsmanship of this effort, and it would obviously be simpler to glue and nail the pieces together. But I place more value in reducing the possible ways that are available to “trick” this device. 

Transparency
(Protocols)
• Furthermore, the device, when completed will be left uncovered and exposed to the surrounding elements and operated in multiple environments to reduce the number ways to trick this device. 

Transparency
(Protocols)
• I do want this device to be well-built enough to operate even when transporting it, to better distinguish it from rather immobile devices which, who knows, could be powered by an object hiding behind a wall or some other structure in the room. 

Metal Spring Clamps
(Equipment)
• Before drilling the pilot holes for the brass screws, I will clamp the Ash wood base blocks with Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamps that I purchased from Woodcraft. 

Power Drill
(Recap)
• Earlier in this construction Phase, I will have used a rotary tool from Ferm and the Dremel 407 Sanding Drum to make neat circular holes for the bearings. 

Compact Power Drill
(Tools)
• However, to drill pilot holes for the brass screws, I will use an 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master from Harbor Freight Tools. 3/8 in. is about 9.5 millimeters. 

Drill Bits
(Tools)
• I also purchased a set of 3/32 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.
• These will allow to me drill pilot holes into the Ash wood base blocks for the screws. 

Brass Screws
(Parts)
• After drilling the pilot holes, I will screw the hinges tight with HighPoint Solid Brass Screws that I purchased from Woodcraft.
• These are size #6 so they have a diameter of 5/16 in. (or about 8 mm) measured at the shank. The shank is the straight section next to the head of each screw. 

Screw Driver Set
(Tools)
• To tighten the screws through the brass brackets which connect the wood panels to the wood base, I purchased an iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools from Fry’s Electronics. 

Square Nuts and Rod
(Phase 1 Parts)
• And finally, the simplest task in Phase 1 is to install these threaded square nuts onto a threaded steel rod. 

Square Nuts and Rod
(Phase 1 Parts)
• These are zinc plated and have a fitting diameter of 5/8” (or about 16 mm) and have 11 threads per inch (11 TPI). I obtained these from Tacoma Screw.
• Their diameter matches the size for the bore hole of the fan, which I will describe in further detail in Phase 4. 

Neo Magnets
(Compatibility)
• These square nuts have a side length of 1” (or 25.4 mm). This is useful because the very strong Neodymium magnets that I will use for this project have imperial measurements whose thickness is ½” (or 12.7 mm). So these magnets will bond straight and level with the square nuts solely through their magnetic attraction, and no glue will be necessary on the magnets themselves. 

Bonding the Square Nuts
(Assembly)
• I will secure the position of the square nuts onto the shaft with a special-purpose glue called Loctite Threadlocker Red 271, which I purchased at Lowe’s.
• This is necessary so that the torque applied to magnet will transfer to the shaft.